|
TRADITIONAL CAKES AND BISCUITS
befanini, cenci, scarpaccia from
Viareggio and marzapane from Pietrasanta Mario Monicelli, film director of masterpieces like the Grande Guerra
and i Soliti ignoti, was born in Viareggio in 1915. He spent his childhood and
youth there then flew off to Rome to the golden world of the cinema. He has
never forgotten his origins, though, in fact, with Amici miei he opened the way
for Tuscan comedy that produced geniuses like Roberto Benigni. Monicelli has
always loved the traditional Tuscan dishes but also the humble cakes and
biscuits like the castagnaccio (castagna means chestnut) which is typical of
the villages in the Appennini but you can also find it in Versilia where the
slopes of the Apuane are abundant with chestnuts. Found in take away pizzerias
and in patisseries but in households as well due to the great tradition for
homemade varieties, likewise necci, also prepared with chestnut flour. Eat them
with ricotta from local shepherds who are still present in this area mainly in
the plain behind Viareggio or in the hills. Viareggio's sweet tradition,
however, is particularly symbolized by befanini: biscuits made with short crust
pastry and cut into various shapes to come out of the oven resembling Christmas
trees, shooting stars and oxen. In fact, their name reminds us that they are
typical of the Christmas period, particularly Epiphany because it is the Befana
(an old witch) who brings presents to children on the 6th January. Father
Christmas is a north European and American invention imported to us only after
the second world war. Another humble and simple cake is scarpaccia, prepared in
the courgette season with flour, eggs and sugar but beware because scarpaccia
is sweet in Viareggio whereas in nearby Camaiore it is savoury. Peculiarities
of history and cooking! Finally may we draw your attention to another biscuit
which is coming back into fashion now: “marzapane” typical of Pietrasanta and
very similar to macaroons.
BEF A N I N I
500 g. plain flour , 300 g. sugar
200 g. butter , 3 eggs a pinch of salt , grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 packet of
raising agent , 16g., 1 glass of liqueur rum or anisette.
SCARPACCIA
300 g. flour , 400 g. washed
courgettes , 1 glass of milk 250 g, sugar, 50 g. butter, 2 eggs, 1 packet of vanilla
5-6 basil leaves cut up a little salt.
CENCI
250 g. white flour, 2 eggs, 20 g.
butter , 20 g. sugar, grated rind of 1 orange, a pinch of salt, 1 tablespoon of
rum or anise.
|
