WHEN IT’S SAGRA IT’S SAGRA

As in all the great capitals of the world, in Versilia, you can eat anywhere at any hour. Working-class neighbourhoods but also where all social classes can enjoy themselves, is where the sagra “street festival” takes place. The most common are those dedicated to tordelli. Don’t miss those organized by the localities involved in the Palio dei Micci at Querceta that take place every summer and situated slightly inland from Forte dei Marmi. Tordelli are prepared by local housewives. At Massarosa don’t miss the “Frog” Street Festival (la sagra della Ranocchioccola). Given that you are in the fens try at least once fried frogs and stewed snails! And fish? There’s the Trabaccolar cooking or in other words the great baccanale; the best place for this is in the Darsena area of Viareggio during the Carnival period. Three dishes to try: risotto al nero di seppia (with black squid (cuttlefish) sauce), fritto di paranza (mixed “trawler” fry) and cacciucco mixed fish soup. Finally there’s Enolia in April at the Palazzo Mediceo at Seravezza, an exhibition dedicated to Italian oils, a great gastronomic moment with oil tasting, debates, workshops dealing with flavour; here’s the chance to savour the best extra virgin oils in Italy.

R I S O T TO A L NERO

for 4 people: 300 g. squid (cuttlefish) cut into pieces, 300g. rice already half-cooked , finish off in the black squid (cuttlefish) sauce garlic, white wine, extra virgin oil.